| Engagement
and Wedding Rings
The
ancient Romans exchanged circular bands of iron as proof
of a marriage contract. Gold began to be used for these
rings in the second century A.D.
The
tradition of wearing the wedding band on the fourth
finger of the left hand stems from a Greek belief that
a certain vein in that finger, the vena amoris,
runs directly to the heart.
Medieval
wedding rings were often set with colored gemstones,
because of the symbolism of the colors.
The
first known recorded account of a diamond betrothal
ring is from 1477; it was presented by Archduke Maximilian
of Austria to his beloved Mary of Burgundy.
The
smallest betrothal ring on record was given to two year
old Princess Mary, daughter of Henry VIII, on the event
of her engagement to the infant Dauphin of France, son
of King Francis I, in 1518. The tiny gold ring, fitted
to her finger, was set with a valuable diamond.
In
the Middle Ages, men often kept a betrothal ring suspended
from the band of their hat, ready to send to their chosen
maid.
Posy
rings, inside which were inscribed little poems and
love messages, were popular for centuries, from the
Middle Ages until Victorian times.
Very
elaborate, intricately-detailed rings were used in the
Jewish wedding ceremony during the Renaissance period.
The bezel was often in the shape of a gabled building,
synagogue, or Solomon's Temple.
Renaissance
jewelers created a new kind of wedding ring called the
gimmel, or twin, ring. It consisted of two (or more)
interlocking rings, joined by a pivot to slide together
into one, symbolizing the union of two lives. Martin
Luther and Catherine Bora were wed with an inscribed
gimmel ring in 1525.
A
ring in which the gimmel hoops terminated in hands,
which clasped together when the ring was closed, was
known as a fede ring (Italian for faith). It
was introduced around 1600.
A
diamond cluster ring in the shape of a long pointed
oval was popular as an engagement ring during the time
of Louis XVI, and remained fashionable for 150 years
afterwards.
In
the seventeenth century, the Puritans tried--unsuccessfully--to
abolish the tradition of the wedding ring.
Hearts
were popular motifs for engagement and wedding rings
during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Such
rings often combined rubies (signifying love) and diamonds
(signifying eternity).
King
George III introduced the tradition of the "keeper,"
or guard, ring in 1761 when he presented a band encircled
with diamonds to his bride, Queen Charlotte. Today such
a ring is popular as a wedding or anniversary band.
In
Persia, it was customary for a bridegroom to give a
ring to everyone who attended the ceremony. Similarly,
Queen Victoria and Prince Albert gave out six dozen
rings, each engraved with the queen's profile, at their
marriage.
Queen
Victoria's engagement ring was in the form of a serpent.
The snake motif was believed to be a symbol of good
luck.
The
discovery of large diamond deposits in South Africa
during the nineteenth century brought diamond engagement
rings into vogue.
A
type of English engagement ring, called the princess
ring, had three to five sizable diamonds in a row across
the top; it was popular in the U.S. in the early twentieth
century.
The
Tiffany, or solitaire, setting was introduced in the
late nineteenth century.
Wedding
bands engraved with orange blossoms and wreaths were
particularly popular during the 1920s and 30s. The tradition
behind the motif dates back to the Crusaders, who would
place a wreath of orange blossoms on the bride's head
as a blessing.
World
War II temporarily took platinum off the market, making
it unavailable to jewelers for engagement rings and
wedding bands. Consequently, most such rings made during
the war years were of gold.
Wordl
War II also saw the "revival" of the double-ring
wedding ceremony, an old European custom, in which the
groom (as well as the bride) receives a wedding band;
its popularity continues today.
Pearls
The
ancient Greeks believed that the bride who wore pearls
on her wedding day would enjoy marital bliss, and not
cry as a newlywed woman.
During
the Crusades, dashing young knights presented their
fair ladies with pearls on their wedding day.
Royal
weddings of the 14th and 15th centuries were described
as "almost a sea of pearls," with the bride,
wedding party and guests adorned with pearl jewelry.
For
her 1933 wedding, heiress Barbara Hutton received from
her father a strand of fifty-three pearls formerly owned
by Marie Antoinette.
Other
celebrities who chose pearls as their wedding gem include
Queen Elizabeth II, Jacqueline Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor
and Gloria Vanderbilt.
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