Recent technological advances have made modern-day diamond-cutting a precision science. Just a few centuries ago, however, fashioning diamond rough into jewels was considered an art; each gemstone bespoke the love, labor and talent of the craftsman behind it. This article will examine some early diamond cuts which presaged the development of the modern brilliant.

Because of limited tools and technology, the earliest cutting styles, known as point cuts, were simple modifications of the rough diamond's octahedral (eight-sided) shape. The table cut resulted from grinding flat one of the octahedron's points; facets were added, and the bottom point ground off to form a culet.

The sixteenth century saw the development of the rose cut, which enjoyed popularity until the early 1900s. Believed to have originated in India, the rose cut is so-named because its facets resemble the petals of a rosebud. The rose cut has a flat bottom and domed crown, whose facets come to a point in the center. The number of facets can range from simple three- and six-facet cuts, to more complex 12-, 18- and 24-facet patterns.

Variations include the double rose cut (which looks like two rose cuts joined at their bases), and the briolette (teardrop-shaped--pointed at one end, rounded at the other--and faceted all over). Rose cuts in antique jewelry are sometimes found backed with a thin layer of foil, designed to produce interesting light and color effects. Demand for rose cuts has soared in recent years, as both designers and consumers have become enamored of their soft glow and sculptural form. Sadly, supply cannot keep pace, as most of these vintage stones were re-cut into modern brilliants over the last century.

The full-cut brilliant emerged in the late seventeenth century. It has a complete set of 58 facets, like the modern brilliant. The difference is in the proportions; earlier cuts were devised to maximize weight from the rough, whereas modern cuts are designed to maximize "fire". Consequently, older versions of the full-cut brilliant have different proportions than the modern cut, such as smaller tables, larger culets and steeper crowns. The old mine cut, a very early version, often has a squarish or cushion shape. The old European cut, developed later, has a circular shape, and is considered to be the direct ancestor of the modern brilliant.

It's important when looking at antique jewelry to refrain from judging old diamonds by modern standards. Diamonds were fashioned to reflect the tastes and techniques of the time in which they were made. The softer, romantic glow of yesteryear's diamonds should be regarded as different--not necessarily inferior--to the glittering brilliance of modern cuts. In fact, because of their distinctiveness, antique diamonds are fast becoming favorites of those searching for a bit of individuality in an increasingly-standardized world.