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History
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The
Roaring Twenties are known as a fun-loving, decadent era;
a time of gangsters, speakeasies and dancing the Charleston.
Prohibition was passed in 1919, making it fashionable
to break the law. Women won the right to vote in 1920.
Society embraced the new "modern art" engendered
by Cubism and the Ballet Russe. King Tutankhamun's tomb
in Egypt was discovered in 1922. Fifteen million new cars
were registered between 1920-1929. Fortunes were made
in the stock market; the bubble burst, however, with the
crash of 1929, and the Thirties began under the cloud
of the Great Depression. |
Fashion
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Women
asserted their new equality with radical changes in fashion.
They bobbed their hair, painted their lips, bared their
arms, bound their chests and wore short drop-waisted dresses
in the new "flapper" style. The boyish silhouette
was accessorized with long dangling earrings, long strands
of pearls, diamond watches, dress clips and cocktail rings,
and bracelets in multiples on both upper and lower arms.
Cloche hats completed the look. |
Jewelry
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Platinum
and Precious Stones:
Post-war prosperity broadened the market for for platinum,
diamonds and precious stones. Popularity of the white-on-white
look carried over from pre-WWI days, with the addition
of ruby, emerald and sapphire accents.
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Dramatic
Combinations:
Society's emphasis on freedom of expression and uninhibited
values gave rise to unexpected and dramatic combinations
of materials in jewelry; for example, coral and diamonds,
or turquoise and sapphire. The bright colors were inspired
in part by the scenery of the Ballet Russe. Black enamel
was often used to add contrast. A seemingly random "jumble"
of carved colored gemstones, termed the "fruit salad"
look, became popular.
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Geometric
Shapes:
The influence of Cubism is apparent in the strong symmetry
and geometry, and streamlined shapes of Art Deco jewelry.
Geometric diamond cuts like the baguette, emerald, triangle,
shield and calibre cuts were developed and widely used.
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Egyptian
Motifs:
The discovery of King Tut's tomb in 1923 incited a craze
for Egyptian motifs like the scarab, sphinx and falcon.
Stones which had been used in King Tut's jewelry, like
lapis lazuli, carnelian and chalcedony, became popular.
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Eastern
Influence:
The influence of India and the Orient is evident in the
use of carved gemstones, ivory, jade and highly-stylized
natural motifs.
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Speed
Motifs:
As the automobile rose in importance, Art Deco culture
became one that glorified speed and motion. Jewelry designs
include motifs like autos, planes, arrows, gazelles and
panthers.
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Popular
Items:
Several unique jewelry forms enjoyed a particular vogue
during this era, including dress clips, flexible diamond
"strip" bracelets, and pearls worn as sautoirs
or long ropes. The recent marketing of the cultured pearl
made the latter much more affordable. |
Antique engagement rings from this period are highly sought
after today. These engagement rings are usually made of white
gold and platinum, and contain antique diamonds such as Old
European Cut and Asscher Cut diamonds. The rings often have
baguettes or uniquely shaped side diamonds; colored gemstones
like sapphires, rubies and emeralds are sometimes used as accents.
Wedding bands from the period are also usually white gold or
platinum, and set with diamonds. |
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