History
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Edward
VII ascended the throne following the death of his mother,
Queen Victoria, in 1901. He and his wife Alexandra set
the tone for the Belle Epoque, a time when elegance
and fashion became society's predominant values. New wealth
flourished among the upper and middle classes; the automobile,
airplane and movie industries were born. Although Edward
died in 1910, the stylistic period termed "Edwardian"
is considered to continue until World War I. |
Fashion
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The
figure gained a new importance in fashion: the feminine
S-shape silhouette prevailed. Fashion drew inspiration
from the French courts of the eighteenth century; it took
on an almost ethereal lightness, with layers of delicate
fabrics, lace and feathers. Pale pastels and monochromatic
white-on-white were the dominant color schemes. Demand
for jewelry styles as light and delicate as the clothing
ensued. |
Jewelry
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Platinum:
Platinum's strength enabled the creation of "invisible"
settings, in which very little metal was used to hold
a gemstone in place. Such settings complemented fashion's
lightness. Jewelry made with saw-piercing and filigree
techniques matched the lacy looks of the era. White gold
alloys were developed as a less expensive alternative,
and as a substitute for platinum (considered a strategic
metal) during WWI.
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Diamonds
and Pearls:
Diamonds and pearls set in platinum were favored for their
white-on-white color scheme, and sense of refined elegance
and luxury.
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Garland
Style Motifs:
Eighteenth-century decorative motifs, such as swags, bows,
ribbons, tassels, wreaths and flower garlands, show the
neo-classical and Rococo influences on Edwardian jewelry
design.
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Necklaces:
The new fashion--with its upswept hair, high collars for
day and low necklines for evening--emphasized the head
and neck. Pendants and lavalieres were widely worn. Particularly
popular was the negligee pendant, consisting of
two drops of unequal length suspended from a central element.
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Indian
Influence:
When Edward toured India, Alexandra developed a keen interest
in the style of the Indian princesses, or Maharajas. This
exotic influence started a fashion for diamond aigrettes
(feathers worn as hair ornamnets); sautoirs (long ropes
of pearls or chain ending in a tassel); and chokers, or
"dog collars" (one of Alexandra's favorite styles).
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Brooches:
Circle brooches and bar pins, particularly with lacy filigree
designs, were very fashionable. Stars and crescents were
also popular.
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Amethyst:
A favorite stone of Alexandra's, amethyst was often included
in jewelry of the era. The combination of these violet
stones with white pearls and green peridots
represented the colors of the suffragette movment; the
"g," "w," and "v" stood
for "give women the vote." |
Today,
diamond engagement rings from this time period are extremely
popular. These engagement rings often feature filigree detail,
and contain antique diamonds such as the Old Mine Cut and
Old European Cut diamonds. The rings are typically made of
platinum or white gold. Filigree diamond earrings and necklaces,
and white gold and platinum wedding bands, are the ideal complement
to such engagement rings.
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