History
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The
Thirties were a decade of Depression for both the U.S.
and Europe. The American public looked to the movies as
an escape from everyday struggles. The real-life "love
story" of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor also captured
the popular imagination. World War II began in Europe
in 1939. When the U.S. entered the war in 1941, women
joined the work force en masse to lend their support.
Sweeping social, economic and cultural changes followed
the war's end in 1945, as middle-class affluence boomed. |
Jewelry
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Gold:
Yellow gold regained prominence during this era, as wartime
restrictions made platinum unavailable to the jewelry
industry. Retro jewelry is often multi-colored, combining
gold alloys with rose, yellow, and even green overtones.
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Semi-precious
and Synthetic Stones:
Semi-precious stones and synthetic rubies and sapphires
gained favor in the face of wartime luxury taxes and a
scarcity of precious stones. New trade routes opened up
South America as a bountiful source of large, semi-precious
stones. Consequently, Retro jewelry often features colored
gemstones like citrine and aquamarine, in rectangular
cuts and massive proportions.
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Romantic
Motifs:
Romantic motifs such as bows, flowers, scrolls, fans,
ribbons and ruffles complemented the new femininity in
fashion. In wartime, these jewelry pieces served as substitutes
for such embellishments on clothing, which were severely
restricted by the war effort.
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Large
Proportions:
The taste for Hollywood glamour and drama called for jewelry
of "larger-than-life" proportions. Cocktail
rings, bracelets, watches and necklaces were massive and
three-dimensional. The vogue for textured fabrics and
an exaggerated silhouette further necessitated jewelry
of a certain size and volume.
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Machine
Age Design:
Glorification of the machine in 1930s and 40s America
was reflected in jewelry elements that resembled pipes
or plumbing, zippers, brickwork and tanktreads.
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Patriotic
Themes:
Patriotic themes (like flags, eagles and military insignia)
and colors (synthetic ruby and sapphire) were prevalent
in wartime jewelry.
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Charms:
Sizeable, three-dimensional charms became popular as a
very personal form of expression. They were often worn
in great numbers on a link bracelet, chronicling the life
and experiences of its wearer.
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Earrings:
Focus was on the lobe, as earrings sat close to the ear,
instead of dangling below it. Popular motifs included
flowers, scrolls and cornucopia. French (screw) backs
and clips were prevalent.
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Illusion
Settings:
Engagement ring designs were directly affected by the
Thirties economy. Smaller diamonds were set in illusion
settings; these elaborately carved, square white gold
mountings gave the diamonds a much larger appearance.
Such rings are very popular today with budget-minded consumers
who care more for character than carat weight; beautifully-detailed
engagement rings with a lot of "look" can often
be had for around $500. |
Antique
engagement rings from this time period are delicately-detailed,
and quite popular. Highly collectible is the estate designer
jewelry from this era, such as that made by Tiffany, Cartier
and Van Cleef & Arpels.
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