History
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Queen
Victoria ascended the throne in 1837, ruling Great Britain
until her death in 1901. As the first female monarch in
over a century, Victoria became the predominant trendsetter
for women of her time. In general, her reign was one of
peace and prosperity. The Industrial Revolution furthered
rapid social and economic change. A series of International
Expositions begun in 1851 spread technological and stylistic
innovations worldwide. The emerging middle class created
a new demand for jewelry, which for the first time began
to be made in large quantities for the mass market. |
Fashion
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Fashions
were rather voluminous throughout the period. Full skirts,
long sleeves and lace collars dominated the early decades.
As women became more active (in both work and leisure)
towards the end of the century, their dress became more
tailored. Similarly, jewelry reached massive proportions
during the 1860s and 70s, but became lighter and more
delicate in later years. |
Jewelry
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Sentimental
Themes:
Victoria's romantic nature, love for her husband and devotion
to her children inspired a profusion of sentimental motifs
in jewelry, such as hearts, bows, flowers, birds, and
romantic sayings. Jewelry made from the hair of a loved
one (living or deceased) was particularly popular.
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Semi-precious
Stones:
Semi-precious stones were used to keep jewelry made for
the mass market affordable. Especially popular were garnet,
amethyst, coral, turquoise, seed pearls and opals (one
of Victoria's favorite stones).
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Intricate
Goldwork:
Gold became less expensive to work with as new sources
were discovered, and standards were relaxed (after 1854,
jewelry could be made in 9, 12 and 15K, rather than just
18K). Jewelers experimented with techniques to change
the look and texture of gold, like granulation, chasing,
engraving and filigree.
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Diamonds:
Large diamond deposits were discovered in 1867, greatly
increasing their accessiblity and affordability. Sparkling,
diamond-set jewelry became especially desirable after
the introduction of electric lighting in the 1880s.
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Nature
Motifs:
Victorians' penchant for nature and gardening is reflected
in the motifs of their jewelry. Particularly prevalent
were flowers, considered highly symbolic, and serpents
(a favorite motif of Victoria's, representing eternity,
wisdom and good luck).
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Mourning
Jewelry:
The unexpected death of Victoria's husband Albert in 1861
sent her, and her entire nation, into mourning. Consequently,
jewelry of black enamel, jet and onyx was in high demand
during the latter part of the century. |
Victorian
and Antique Jewelry Today
Antique
jewelry from this time period contains antique diamonds such
as rose cut, Old Mine Cut, cushion cut and Old European Cut
diamonds. It was during this era that the Tiffany engagement
ring setting was introduced. Victorian jewelry is usually
made of yellow gold or rose gold, with colorful gemstones.
Antique
jewelry from the Victorian era is becoming scarce on the market.
Necklaces, earrings, bracelets, brooches and rings may still
be found at some antique and estate jewelry stores. The collectibility
of Victorian jewelry continues to increase with time.
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